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ATT: Dallas Folks! Redoing Your Shower/Bathroom?

I get this type of scenario on almost every bathroom/shower project:

     

"Ok, I’m redoing my master bathroom and shower. I’m changing my shower frame, fixtures, floors, etc. There’s so much to consider – can you put things in order for me? "

 

Certainly:

 

 

      ⇒Tear-out/Demolition

 

 The installer tears out your old tile and strips the walls down. He may leave it like this or put up the backerboard. You want to have your new fixtures ready by this initial stage for the plumber.

 

  

     ⇒Plumber 

 

When doing a shower, the plumber needs to come in and change your faucets out (if you are replacing your fixtures). The fixtures come with their own installation kits the plumber installs for you. He may also be required to reposition the shower head as it will no longer be centered. This happens if you plan on extending your shower pan. Be sure the shower head plumbing is re-aligned otherwise it will look LOL when it's done. 

 

Get a plumber in advance so they don’t charge you a short notice fee.  

 

If you are changing out your countertops and tub, you may need to co-ordinate for the plumber to return and hook those up as well. Alternatively, I can send in the plumber I use for my projects. I simply tell him what type of project I’m doing and he knows what to do.

 

No tiling can begin on the shower until the plumbing is squared away. 

  

 

     Shower gets tiled 

 

Your shower has to be completely finished (tiled) before the glass/enclosure guy even comes out to measure. If there is just an 1/8” inch discrepancy, that’s enough for water to seep through and give you a welcoming puddle every time you step out of your shower. 

 

 

 

     Shower Glass 

 

Once everything is finished, measuring for your new shower enclosure can begin. 

 

The single most critical thing when redoing your shower is getting an installer that knows what they’re doing. You cannot “wing” a shower. 

 

If the installer for example, doesn’t float the pan correctly and water manages to seep underneath, you’re going to have a dead animal smell (rotting materials) and water stains coming soon to a theatre near you. 

 

 

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Darwin Award Candidate
 

 

I saw water soluble caulk used inside a shower.

 

Way to go! (lol)  

 

Idiot. 

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A few other things to look out for:

 

  *If you are getting a built in shampoo box or seat built, make sure the installer gives them enough angle so water drips DOWN to the floor, and not straight so it simply gathers on top. Such a simple thing escapes so many installers.

 

  *The shower pan needs to also angle correctly towards the drain from either side so water actually goes down the drain. 

 

 

Finally....

 

Grout Lines

Some folks ask what they can do to minimize their grout uglying out. There are a few things:

 

1. Use a larger size tile. The bigger the tile, the fewer grout lines you have

 

2. Using stone means your grout lines can be closed right up to a few credit cards thick. If you go with tile and want the least amount of grout lines, go with a rectified tile. That allows for the narrowest grout lines possible on a tile.

 

3. If you really want to, you can seal your grout which can help with stain resistance. 

 

 

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